We went to bed early on Monday night. There’s not much to do in a yurt. We hunkered down beneath a very heavy thick quilt and attempted to find the balance between the heat from our bodies and the blankets, and the chill coming from outside. Can you believe that I was actually more hot than cold?
I slept pretty well, thankfully not needing to get up to pee in the middle of the night. We heard a coyote howling at one point during the night so there was an even greater incentive to hold it in. Glen woke up before me, then woke me up to ask me to walk to the toilet with him. It was 6:30am. I refused and tried to go back to sleep.
Eventually the sun started to rise and the yurt started to be filled with red light (it was a red yurt). We stayed in bed until about 8:30 when we got up, got dressed and went for breakfast in the main house. It was simple food. Glen called Rob back home to talk about work, and then we went for a walk through the orchard. We were treated to the very cute sight of a little red squirrel munching on some notes while he was sitting on a sign. He didn’t seem too bothered with us, until he dropped his nuts and then he went a bit psycho.
We left Cabot Shores about 10, stopped into the pewter shop (where we learnt that pewter is made of 92% tin), then drove down the coast, seeing even more spectacular scenery. Green, red, yellow and orange trees lined the coast and it was just an awesome experience to be driving down through it. I also got the sensation that I somehow wanted to take even more of it in, like what I was seeing wasn’t enough, that I had to have all of it. It was very bizarre. I felt greedy.
Usige Ban Falls
We drove to Usige Ban Falls, another recommendation from the Cape Breton tourism lady in Halifax. Once again she did not disappoint. We set off on our little walk through sun dappled forest beside a clear running river. It wasn’t a long walk but it was beautiful. The falls at the end were lovely and the water so clear. We stayed for a while, and it was just one of those sublime moments where you try to breathe it all in. A very peaceful place, even with the eight other people there. Apparently after rain it’s an even more impressive sight.
On the walk out we passed a tree that had green-and-red leaves, where the centres were green but the edges were red. I’ve never seen anything like it before. It was really bizarre and unexpected. Just before we left the trail, we passed about thirty people coming in. They’d arrived on a tour bus and I was really glad we’d got there when we did, and were able to enjoy the falls with little distraction.
It was lunchtime by the time we got out so we drove to Baddeck, ate some pizza, sent postcards, and then began the four hour journey home. A bit more traffic on a Tuesday afternoon and there were some roadworks, but otherwise the drive was easy. I got a bit distressed see a dead coyote on the side of the road. It had a very fluffy coat and looked just like a dog having a sleep. Poor baby.
Back to Halifax and Toronto
We decided to go into downtown Halifax for dinner so we hit rush hour traffic going over the Macdonald Bridge. We had dinner at The Bicycle Thief, ordering more food than we actually needed, and eating it way too fast. Glen had a surf and turf (though with half a lobster), and a clam chowder to start. I had calamari then lobster ravioli. Definitely ate too fast as we rolled out of there feeling a bit sick. I had been anxious about getting the car back to the airport in time but we didn’t really realise we had plenty of time ahead of us.
We got to the airport very early, cleared the car out of all junk that had become strewn across the backseat over the past could of days, then returned it. Over four days, I drove for 18 hours over a distance of 1300km. I am a bit over driving now.
We passed through security with no problem and then waited about two hours for our flight. The flight was quick and the best thing of all was Julian collected us from the airport. It’s normally an hour ride on public transport from the airport to our place, which isn’t fun at 11:30pm. So grateful for him picking us up (he also brought us pizza). It wasn’t long after getting home that we tumbled into bed and fell asleep.
Do I need to visit Nova Scotia again? I still want to see the Bay of Fundy, and Parrsboro and Digby would be nice to see. And seeing the Cabot Trail again would be good, although at a slower pace perhaps. We probably won’t hurry back, especially as we want to see Bay of Fundy from the New Brunswick side. Then we would have been to 9 of the 13 provinces. I’d better look at some flights.
And finally, here’s a video of the highlights from the four days…